concern in her voice as she looks out the large picture windows of Röst café toward the long pier of Reykjavík’s old harbour. The area is always bustling with activity of tourists shuffling onto the large whale watching ships docked there or, in more recent years, the agile RIB boats that promise to get thrill-seeking nature lovers up close to puffins, harbour porpoises and the massive, majestic whales swimming in the cold seas not far off Iceland’s coast.