This article was the cover feature of The Reykjavík Grapevine, Vol. 20, issue 10. It was originally published in September 2023. Read it on Grapevine.is. “It’s been a crazy day,” Valgerður Árnadóttir says, a clear tone of concern in her voice as she looks out the large picture windows of Röst café toward the long… Continue reading The Indefensible Defence Of An Obsolete Industry — The Reykjavík Grapevine